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| Hardwood Basics Wood Flooring Types Solid Wood Flooring Laminate Flooring Basic Flooring Care | |||
| Hardwood Basics | |||
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Most people simply love the way wood flooring enhances a room. It gives a room a sense of permanence, stability and warmth. Even in a small house with minimal square footage, wood floors give a house a well-crafted, “high-end” appearance. In fact, 90 percent of realtors say that wood floors help a home sell faster and for more money. There are many good reasons why wood flooring may be right for your home. There are also a few good reasons why wood flooring might not be the right choice for you. It’s definitely worth the time to educate yourself about the benefits and limitations of wood before you make the investment. Among the reasons to choose wood are: • Wood floors tie a room together, yet complement virtually any furniture, artwork or overall style. • The wide range of species, colors and patterns offer endless design possibilities. • Wood floors are easy to clean thoroughly. They’re ideal for people with allergies, asthma or other respiratory problems, because dust particles, pollen and dust mites stay on the surface where they can be wiped up. • For the price of a high-quality carpet installation, a well-maintained hardwood floor can easily last beyond a 30-year mortgage, while carpets are replaced an average of three times in that same time span. Before Considering Wood, Consider What’s Under It Before looking into the merits of various wood floor types, wood species, finishes and all the other considerations, it’s extremely important to talk about the floor under the floor. Or, stated more simply: a wood floor is only as good as the subfloor. Most solid hardwood flooring will need to be nailed or stapled through the face or blind-nailed through the tongue. The subfloor must be able to hold the nail or staple. For that reason, concrete won’t work. It’s also not a good idea to install a wood floor over particleboard because it doesn’t hold a nail well. And even if it does initially, it will soon work loose, leaving you where you started. Plywood, OSB or tongue-and-groove decking products over joists are recommended for most installations. Vinyl floors, glued-down carpets, and other existing flooring types are not suitable as subflooring and must be removed. Before installing solid wood flooring, get down to the solid, flat and dry subfloor. Remember (and, yes, we’re being repetitious), a wood floor is only as good as the subfloor. On-Grade, Above-Grade, Below-Grade Most appropriate installations are considered “on-grade,” meaning that the floor is level with the height of the exterior grounds with joists or post-and-beam construction supporting the floor. When installing on-grade, it’s important that the crawlspace or basement under the subfloor is well-ventilated. If ventilation is not adequate, moisture will likely result in cupping or warping of the hardwood months after installation. "Above-grade," meaning upper floors of a multi-floor house or building may be appropriate for solid wood flooring if the subfloor is wood. Another consideration is the amount of flex in the floor prior to installation. While all floors have (and need) some flexibility, a more rigid floor is necessary for strip solid wood floors. "Below-grade" situations, such as basements with cement floors, limit your choices considerably. Some parquets, as well as the solid wood Natural Reflections Line from Bruce can be installed over cement using a direct glue method. In general, though, cement floors mean moisture, which spells disaster for hardwood. Your best bet would be to install an engineered wood floor over a moisture barrier using the floating installation technique. | |||
| Wood Flooring Types | |||
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Prefinished vs. Unfinished It’s important to note that iFloor.com sells only prefinished wood flooring, where stains and a finishes are applied in the factory under carefully maintained conditions. We do not sell unfinished flooring that is installed, sanded and finished in the home. Prefinished wood is excellent for people who want to do installation themselves, but without the sanding and the exhaustive finishing process. Price is generally not an advantage. For the cost of a very high-quality prefinished floor, you can probably find a local contractor to install, sand and finish a floor cheaper. However, prefinished flooring offers a much cleaner, clearer finish than a floor finished in your home. Because the wood is finished in carefully controlled factory conditions, it does not have the dust, dirt and other particles that are visible in almost any floor that’s finished on site. You also don’t have to move out when the finish is applied. Prefinished also offers much more variety than standard unfinished flooring. The extra choices give you the opportunity to install interesting African hardwood species like Purple Heart, or to use contrasting species as accent pieces. For our purposes, we’re discussing only the four prefinished wood choices offered here. | |||
| Solid Wood Flooring | |||
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Solid wood flooring is the type most consumers recognize, because it’s been available longer. This flooring is comprised of wood strips nailed side by side. It provides excellent insulation, and it adds substantial strength to a home’s structure.
Many people feel solid wood flooring is the most aesthetically pleasing, especially considering the wide range of species and coloration available.
In addition to the many choices available, iFloor.com also offers several brands of “handscraped” hardwoods. These are more expensive, because each board has been hand altered by craftsmen to give the flooring an overall burnished, time-worn appearance. The marks in the floor are unique and intentional, and the flooring gives a room a comfortable, timeless look. Yet these floors have excellent finishes that lock the qualities in place.
Because solid wood floors expand and contract with temperature variation and moisture, they should really only be installed in homes that are climate controlled year round. If there is a high degree temperature variation or humidity present, the floor is likely to experience cupping, warping or gaping. These conditions are not related to the installation and are generally not covered by warranties as they are with other wood flooring options. If you’re choosing wood flooring for a summer house or a cottage that’s often left unattended, unheated and uncooled, then nailed-down, solid wood probably isn’t the right choice.
Installation Method: Nail-down or staple-down only.
The one exception to solid wood flooring that can be installed over concrete is Bruce Natural Reflections Hardwood.
Standard Dimensions Solid Hardwood Lengths: Random from 12" to 84" in length Widths: 2 1/4"(most common) also from 1-1/2" strip to 7" planks Thicknesses: 3/4"(most common) or 5/16" | |||
| Laminate Flooring Basics | |||
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Though laminate flooring was introduced in the United States in 1996, it has been sold successfully in Europe for about 20 years. Most people have never heard of laminate flooring and have no idea what it is. But chances are, those same people know what Pergo flooring is. Well, Pergo is laminate flooring. Pergo, the company that first created this type of flooring, was the first brand offered in the United States. For this reason, its name has become synonymous with laminate flooring despite the presence of about 40 other brands. Essentially all laminates are composed of three layers. 1. The Surface Wear Layer. The surface layer is typically made of an extremely tough-wearing aluminum oxide. The pattern that you see as you look at the floor is actually that of a printed photograph adhered to the clear surface. Many people consider the pattern an additional layer, but for simplification, we consider them as one. Many laminates look like wood floors, but it’s merely a photograph of a wood floor applied to a melamine laminate. Because you can photograph nearly anything for a floor, there are few limitations. Most, though, are wood, stone, brick and tile based. 2. The Core. The core board or “carrier board” is made of a variety of materials, depending on the manufacturer. Most are MDF, or medium density fiberboard, which is a durable engineered wood product that resists moisture. Others can have a high density wood particle core. While the MDF may be slightly more structurally sound, the particle cores absorb glue slightly better at the joints. Both materials, if manufactured by dependable companies, provide a durable, trustworthy core. 3. Backing. The backing board varies depending on who makes the floor, but it ranges from a paper layer to a full plastic laminate layer. Those with a laminate or melamine backing may be better against potential water damage than those with paper backings, and the laminate is more stable. All of these layers are fused by heat and pressure. Installation Laminate flooring comes in individual boards with tongue-and-groove edges, roughly eight inches by four feet long. Matching trim and molding is available. Laminate is installed as a “floating floor.” A layer of foam is placed under the flooring and the individual “boards” are glued at the tongue and groove joint. The individual pieces of laminate flooring are not glued or nailed down to the subfloor. In regard to subflooring, there’s lots of flexibility. Laminate can be installed over concrete, plywood, or OSB subflooring. And while other forms of flooring require that you pull up and existing floor, laminate can be applied directly over ceramic tile, vinyl, and parquet floors. Laminate’s 1/3-inch thickness is also an asset when dealing with transitions (vs. a typical 3/4-inch, Swedish-finish wood floor). Remember, anytime you install a floor, it should be at the same height as adjoining floors. Installing laminate is easy for some and difficult for others. If you’re a skilled handy person, someone who can hang a door and do simple carpentry, you can probably do the job. However, 90% of all laminate floor jobs can be installed by professionals in a day or less, while it will probably take you 2-3 days of hard work. If you’re not sure if the job is for you, videos are available at iFloor.com that can help you decide. They demonstrate how to install the floor and give an overview of what to expect. Most laminate flooring comes with a triple warrant against wear, staining and fading. Some manufacturers also offer moisture warranties, but look closely at the warranty itself. Many are really just an extension of your homeowner insurance. If your insurance company doesn’t cover the damage (which they usually will), the flooring manufacturer may cover a portion of it. Either way, make sure you know what you’re getting before you buy. Limitations We don’t recommend installing laminates in wet areas such as bathrooms and laundry rooms. Water on the top layer will not damage it as it would hardwoods, but problems can develop when moisture works its way along the edges or underneath. With some installation modifications, laminate can go in a wet area. Check with the installer. In general, though, we recommend tile or vinyl for wet areas. Another issue, which some people consider a limitation, is strictly a matter of personal choice. Because laminates are a floating floor, they produce a slight tapping sound as you walk on it. Some manufacturers have introduced acoustical padding to muffle the sound with varying results. It’s a good idea to test it by walking on a dealer display floor and imagining how it will sound in your home. We recommend cork underlayment for any floating floor as the BEST method of reducing the echo effect or tapping sound. | |||
| Floor Care | |||
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With the proper care, your floors will stay beautiful for many years to come. Common sense and some preventative steps can lengthen the life of your floors. A regular cleaning routine will simplify your floor care. Good preventative maintenance lengthens the time between major renovations, such as re-waxing, re-coating and refinishing. Everyday dust and dirt are your floors worst enemy. It is essential to dust, mop, vacuum or sweep regularly.
So, how do you keep your floors as beautiful as the day they were installed or refinished? Follow these easy steps and always use the manufacturers' recommended cleaning product.
• WOOD AND WATER DON'T MIX!!! Excessive amounts of water can cause your wood floor to swell and cup. Use a slightly damp mop (we suggest the Sh-Mop) to clean your hardwood surfaces. • Vacuum beater bars can cause damage to your floors' surface. If possible, turn off the beater bar, or use the hose or wand attachment with a soft upholstery nozzle for your hardwood or polished stone surface. • Never use household dust treatments or furniture polish on hardwood or highly polished floors These may cause your floor to become slick or dull the finish. • Under NO circumstances, should your laminate floors ever be sanded. Remember, the laminate floor is only a photograph applied to a high-pressure laminate backing. Avoid using harsh abrasive cleaners, waxes, polishes, urethane or lacquer on your laminate floor. • Never place potted plants directly in contact with your flooring, even if they are placed in waterproof saucers. Condensation can develop under these saucers and damage your flooring. To avoid this, place your plants on trivets or stands so that air can circulate underneath. • Dog and cat nails can scratch and dent your floor's surface. Keep nails trimmed regularly. Immediately clean up pet urine, as it will damage the floors' finish if left to dry. • Never use acidic cleaners or household products, such as vinegar, on polished surfaces like marble, as these will etch the stones' surface. • Use dirt-trapping walk-off mats at all exterior doors to prevent dirst and sand (which can act like sandpaper) from entering the building. Vacuum, sweep or dust mop as needed to remove dirt and grit prior to cleaning your floors. • Use area rugs on high traffic pathways and pivot areas such as the ends of steps and near doorways. All rugs should allow floors to breathe. Avoid rubber-backed or non-ventilated rugs. • Wipe-up food or other spills immediately, using the manufacturers' recommended cleaner and a soft cloth. Use a vacuum or broom for dry spills and abrasives. • Keep high heels in good repair. Heels that have worn down or lost the protective cap, exposing the steel support rod, will dent and pit wood, fracture ceramic tiles or stone and perforate vinyl. A person in stiletto heels, weighing 125 lbs. exerts approx. 2000 lbs. of pressure per square inch. • Certain chemicals in wood and natural stone oxidize in strong light causing the floor to change color. To avoid an uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large sun-facing windows. • Always put Flor Stor felt protective pads on the legs of your furniture. They allow the furniture to be moved easily without scratching or denting your floors' finish and can also provide a sound deadening barrier. Replace your felt pads when they become wornasdirt and grit can become embedded in them. In conclusion: There are many types of finishes on hard surface floors today. Sometimes, different finishes are used in different rooms, so the type of care required may vary. It is important to know how your floors were finished so that you can apply the proper floor care product. Your builder, Realtor or flooring installer/finisher should be able to tell you what type of finish is on your floors. In choosing the proper product, you must first determine if your floor has a urethane, acrylic or wax finish. The care for a wax floor finish is very different from that of a urethane finish. Therefore, it cannot be emphasized enough that you know what type of finish is on your floor! | |||
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FUDELI Industrial Canada Inc |